SWAP: The Tweak'd Performance FR-S

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Thread: SWAP: The Tweak'd Performance FR-S

  1. #1
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    SWAP: The Tweak'd Performance FR-S



    The Tweak'd Performance FR-S...What it is, what it isn't.


    When the FR-S was introduced last year, I only had to take one look at it to know that it was going to be big. A lightweight, rear-wheel drive car for under $30k? Definitely. And expected, once we got our hands on one, we asked the question we always ask ourselves.


    How do we get more power?




    The two standard solutions to this question apply in this case: forced induction or engine swap. There are quite a turbo and supercharger options that are either on the horizon or already released, and we certainly could have gone that route. But... we are Tweak'd Performance, we're the ENGINE SWAP guys, so even though it might sound crazy to pull a brand new engine out of a brand new car... well... we never said we weren't a little crazy. (Speaking of which, anyone need a like-new FR-S engine or transmission? Anyone? No...? Alright...)





    Once that decision was made, it was time figure out which engine to go with first... Yes, I said first... this won't be the only one. Options included the Toyota 3S-GTE, a GM LS1 variation, a WRX STI engine, and of course the glaringly obvious choice... the 2JZ-GTE. Why? Sure, it's getting older, but it's legendary in its ability to make big power, we know and love them, and there's massive aftermarket support. But will it fit? Answering that question requires me to tell you a little more about our philosophy here and why we decided to do this swap.



    First of all, there are a LOT of 2JZ swapped FR-S out there, one trip to youtube will prove that. However, they all share one thing in common: they are race cars. These aren't cars that people drive on the street, they are stripped, gutted, caged, are running standalone ECUs with aftermarket gauges and self-contained wiring harnesses. They are basically using the FR-S only as a race chassis and nothing else. Now, there is nothing wrong with that, if that's what you want. That just isn't what we set out to do.



    That's why, at least for this build, you're not going to see us ripping out the stock wiring harnesses, the dash, the interior, and turning it into just another full-race vehicle. Our goal in doing this swap was to PROVE or DISPROVE the theory that, with the proper mount kit and an engine swap harness, someone could reasonably do this swap in their garage at home, and still want to drive it on the street after. You see, the average FR-S driver probably doesn't want to convert his car into a full-race vehicle. They probably drive it to work, drive it around on the weekend, pick up their girlfriend and go out, whatever. The point is, they want a STREET car, just one with a lot more torque.



    So that brings us to our current project. We're swapping a 2JZ-GTE VVTi engine in an FR-S and we're going to do it with the following conditions:


    No cutting or welding to the chassis of the vehicle
    Retain heat and air conditioning
    Retain functional original gauges
    Retain original chassis wiring harness



    Further, our goal is to make the lessons we learn open source to our fellow FR-S owners. If it can't be done, we'll let you know, and we'll tell you why. We're going to tell you what obstacles we find along the way and how we solve them. Our objective is to use the Tweak'd FR-S as a test rig to see what engines fit, how they fit, what needs to be done to make everything work, what's possible, and what's not. Now, that doesn't mean that one day in the future we might strip it, cage it, tuck the engine bay and make it a full-race or full-show car, but that's in the future. For now, it's engine swap time.



    4-29 We pulled the factory engine out and began mock-up for the 2JZ with the R154 transmission attached. Removing the old engine was a breeze. Our initial attempt at installing the 2JZ was done with the front bumper still attached. After some very careful effort, it was determined to remove the front bumper and upper core support (which unbolts, very handy) and the radiator. That gave us a lot more room to maneuver and we highly recommend it for anyone considering a swap. Once we got the engine leveled out and the transmission started going into the tunnel, we ran into our first snag: the mounting points on the FR-S chassis for the transmission protruded too much, so the transmission would not fit in the tunnel.



    The R154 and V160 transmissions will NOT fit into the FR-S tunnel without chassis modification.

    It was tempting to just get out the cutting wheel and welder and remove the mounting points to proceed with the install, but I reminded myself of our goal: no chassis modification. We want this swap to be feasible and the average guy doing a swap in his garage may not have the welding facilities and skills needed to modify a vehicle chassis. Therefore, we're sourcing a slightly smaller, narrower W58 transmission to either prove or disprove that it will fit. If it fits, we WILL proceed with the swap using the W58.

    Although the W58 is not as strong as the R154 transmission, we are only planning on running about 400-450whp in this car. Personally I think that 400whp will be perfect for this chassis but time will tell. Now, if the W58 does NOT fit into the tunnel without modification to the vehicle, then it's decision time. Either we break our rule of no chassis cutting and welding, or we look into something else.

    We'll find out tonight.

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  3. #2
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    The results are in! The final answer is:

    The 2JZ will NOT fit into the FR-S without some modification to the sheet metal, with either an R154 or W58 transmission.

    As you can see in these pictures, the hood is hitting the timing belt cover and the crank pulley is touching the front crossmember.



    That said, here's what needs to be done to make it fit. No matter what, a custom swaybar is going to be required and the radiator will have to be moved forward. For mounting, there are two options:

    Option 1 - Use W58 transmission and make three minor changes which can be done by anyone with a cutting wheel and a hammer.

    Pros:
    - No welding required
    - Easiest option
    - Gives best access to factory heater hose locations

    Cons:
    - Must use a W58 transmission (only good to ~400whp)
    - Engine sits further forward than would be ideal

    The support under the hood needs to be "dented" as shown here to allow it to clear the timing belt cover and close (also the fire blanket must be removed):



    The ribs on the upper oil pan housing would have to be trimmed slightly:



    And a slit would have to be cut into the front crossmember for the crank pulley it set into:



    At this point I knew that I did NOT want to proceed with the swap using that method. For one, I wasn't happy with having to use the W58 and where the engine was sitting. I simply documented that it COULD be done for future reference of people researching the project. The other option would be to cut the transmission mounting point on the tunnel and move it back by welding it to a different location. Since that was the whole reason that we couldn't fit the R154 transmission in the first time and we were now talking about cutting something on the body of the car, it made sense to go back to the R154 again. So we pulled the engine out, swapped transmissions, and I did a little cutting...

    Option 2 - Use R154 transmission and cut the transmission mounting point, move it back several inches, and reweld it.

    Pros:
    - Can use the R154 transmission (possibly the V160 as well)
    - Allows the engine to be mounted as far back as possible
    - No modification to the front crossmember or oil pan ribs needed (hood remains to be determined)

    Cons:
    - Welding skills and equipment required
    - Chassis is forever altered
    - Heater lines from OEM heater core will need modification

    Before cutting and welding, I pulled some of the interior away from the tunnel so as to make sure we didn't have any accidents.



    We have some more work to do to get the engine exactly where we want, but in the meantime, it's in the car with the R154 attached.



    More to come tonight, will probably update tomorrow morning.
    Last edited by Dr Tweak; 05-01-2013 at 11:26 AM.

  4. #3
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    Good stuff, keep us updated.

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  6. #4
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    Do you have weight of the FA20 and the 2JZ?
    Thanks. Keep up the fun!

  7. #5
    Junior Member Speed And Low Cars's Avatar
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    where do you stand in this build.. Looks awesome by the way

  8. #6
    Junior Member Danielle's Avatar
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    For a second I thought the photo with you standing inside the hood was photoshopped. How hilarious. LOL

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